The good news is, if you can’t do this now, it’s a skill you can work to improve.Ħ Weeks to Stronger Fingers: The Importance of Rest A climber with very solid beta memory can recite every single foot- and handhold on an 80-foot route after just one burn. One of the best exercises to improve beta memory is to visualize your route or boulder problem as often as you can-especially on rest days. It may also help to take video or voice memos of your route’s beta if you find you’re having trouble visualizing the route from memory alone.Īnother great exercise is to have a friend point out a 20- to 30-move traverse at the gym or your local bouldering area. You then try to climb it without having your friend repeat the beta, only calling out for help once or twice if you forget the sequence. If you’re training alone, try this by intentionally not using the lights on the Moon, Kilter, or Tension board-look up the problem on the app, then climb it from memory alone. Seems like a simple one, but the character trait of grit is getting tougher to come by. I have seen many seemingly “underqualified” climbers do next-level things simply by giving it their absolute-freaking-best, and similarly I have seen elite-level climbers let go way too early because everything wasn’t going exactly as planned-because they weren’t climbing perfectly. The bottom line is that climbing your best and pushing yourself are sometimes uncomfortable. If you are the type who tends to stop when the going gets tough or maybe skip that last burn of the day because it feels inconvenient, you have a lot to gain here. Setting goals every day on rock is the first step to overcoming the tendency to give up. The goal doesn’t always have to be sending but should involve striving for progress on your project, even if that progress is small. Think about your goal the night before and visualize what it might take to make that little step forward, then set the intention before you pull onto the stone of doing everything it takes to achieve that goal.
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